Crowds at the Visitor Center

I entered Zion National Park from the east and took Route 9 through the park toward Hurricane, with the intention of stopping at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center en route. There was bumper-to bumper traffic along this route and, when I arrived at the visitor center, the parking lot looked full and the Center itself seemed surrounded by people, so I pushed on to my evening destination, feeling a little concerned.

5:30 AM

Next morning, I arrived at the Visitor Center at 5:30 AM to try to catch the 6:00 AM shuttle along the Zion Canyon; the parking lot was already filling up. With some concern, I joined the queue.

I missed the first shuttle and began to feel that it was going to be a long day. Much to my surprise, I was able to get onto the second shuttle, which departed at 6: 07 AM.

I began to feel much better and indeed, throughout the day, the shuttles moved people around very efficiently, the rangers and staff were very upbeat, and the crowds in general looked happy, everyone (including me) seemed to be having a good time. I felt that I had arrived in Disneyland! I suppose that this will eventually be the lot of many of our National Parks, though I have not yet seen any park that is as far along this route as Zion. The contemplation of nature in solitude, which I enjoyed so much at the first three parks, is likely to become a rare experience. On the plus side, people will continue to enjoy free efficient access to these magnificent monuments and making desirable things available to as many people as possible seems part of the American way.

The Great Sandstone Blocks

The first great attraction of this park are the huge white sandstone blocks.

Named in an earlier era, a group of these form the “Court of the Patriarchs” which looms over the “Virgin Spring,” which, somewhat ironically, is the “mother” of this great canyon. As the river digs deeper into the softer Kayenta mudstone layer beneath the Patriarchs, they will collapse and be borne away into the sea (over a geological eon).

The White Throne

The largest sandstone block (in the world) is the White Throne, towering above the surroundings:

My fondest memory from the previous visit was to climb to Angel’s landing, separated by the canyon from the looming throne. The landing is reached via a relatively steep (1,000 foot) ascent to Scout Outlook, followed by a short travers assisted by fixed handholds to the Landing itself.

Crossing the bridge to begin the climb to Scout Outlook, I met the following sign:

felt as if, during a visit to Disneyland, I had learned that my favorite attraction was out of order. A desperate attempt to get a permit online via my phone was unsuccessful due to lack of reception. (I later learned that the permit had to be obtained by 3 PM on the previous day.)

Doggedly, I pushed on to Scout Lookout, again burdened by my “ten essentials” backpack and four liters of water. Not a single one of my fellow travelers was so equipped and I began to question my long-term packing habit. I could probably have taken at least two fewer liters of water less and could have foregone carrying enough stuff for an emergency overnight stay (as I have been trained to do).

A fanny pack would have sufficed. (Even my fanny pack carries a very small medical kit.) There was a relatively gentle section with about five switchbacks, followed by a level section through a canyon, then a final ascent via a series of short switchbacks. Along the narrow canyon section, I encountered three copies of the following sign:

I am very much in favor of making every national park a “quiet zone” but this is the first time I have seen the need for this rationalized by the need to preserve the sensitive ears of owls.  

The Switchbacks

The last section of the ascent consists of a series of short switchbacks. But there are about thirty of them (!) providing a good opportunity for reflection.

The Chipmunks

Finally reaching Scout Outlook, I sat down and was immediately assailed by five of the most aggressive chipmunks that I have ever encountered! Two of them scrambled up my legs and went directly for my pockets (which did contain some snacks in zip lock baggies.

In an attempt to escape their attention, I tried dousing them with water:

They loved it: “water in the desert, yay!”

At this point a young boy strolled over to reassure me: “They’re real friendly. I just fed them and they will eat straight out of your hand. Let me show you!” At this point, part of the problem became very clear…

I spent about 15 minutes struggling with the strong desire the break the rules and push on to Angel’s landing; but decades of conditioning to follow the rules are hard to overcome. In any case, the rangers finally arrived and started checking passes, so the struggle became moot.

Angel’s Landing and the Throne

I was left with this iconic view: Angel’s Landing on the right (so near, yet so far) across the canyon from the majestic White Throne (on the left).

Reluctantly I began the long descent through the switchbacks and the canyon. Quite a few people were now arriving.

The Narrows

The other main attraction at Zion is the “Narrows,” a deep canyon upstream of the main valley (only 20 ft wide in parts), which can only be accessed by wading through the water. In this section, the river has not yet reached the mudstone layer, so the sandstone cliffs are steep and essentially vertical on each side. Along the way there are some microhabitats: “desert swamps,” fed by the “weeping rocks” (water from precipitation on the upper plateau seeping through the sandstone); these featured some interesting plants including the sage Lilly:

When I reached the end of the path, I encountered the following scene:

Deciding that the adventure of wading in the cold stream with so many boon companions was not worth it, I decided to leave the park.

Next stop: Bryce Canyon!